RUNNER-UP TRAVEL STORY 2011 - India - Guiding Light - by Sriparna Saha
Guiding Light
by Sriparna Saha
Kalawati did not pursue me like the others and initially that was my main reason for choosing her from the flock of guides who had gathered in front of the Taj Mahal, all trying to lure me with discounted rates for their guided tour, to be followed by a shopping session for “authentic antics”. And I would have surely bitten the bait had I not spotted this girl standing a little aloof from the all-male crowd, sweaterless and shivering, in a flimsy salwar kameez, on that misty winter morning. She looked at me with appeal in her eyes; an unspoken but desperate appeal which swiftly changed to sparks of joy as I confirmed that I had selected her.
Taj Mahal, the monument of love, has always intrigued me. Within its premises, thirty years ago, a young college-going girl had bumped into a budding engineer, a collision that was to have far-reaching and lasting consequences for me. Hence on my maiden trip to the city of Agra, the first must-visit place on my list, was the matchmaker monument which had brought my parents together.
My guide by my side, we walked into the walled enclosure, and stopped in awe before the marble monument, which with its flawless symmetry and graceful proportions rose like a dream, symbolizing everything that is pure and pristine. And with Kalawati, in her silky-smooth voice, simultaneously narrating the timeless tales of Shah Jahan and his Begum Mumtaz Mahal, it couldn’t have got any better.
She took me past the lush, green, manicured garden and up the flight of stairs onto the podium which had outward leaning minarets purposefully constructed to prevent them from falling on the Taj during a catastrophe. She led me into the inner chamber where Emperor Shah Jahan lay in a grave beside his beloved wife, in whose fond memory he had raised this monument. The adjoining chamber was pitch dark and as I stood wondering how to see what there was to see, Kalawati swiftly lit a candle and shone her light on the walls which were studded with semi-precious stones set in intricate mosaic. The gems glittered, and my guide glowed in satisfaction, as I stood star-struck by the richness of the experience.
My time with Kalawati, like all good things in the world, ended sooner than I expected. As I parted with the pre-decided amount of money (which included a generous tip) I enquired about the source of her information about the Taj.
She replied, “My husband, a graduate in History, worked here as a certified guide. He was so obsessed with the monument that on every full moon night he used to bring me here!”
She spoke of her husband’s stint with the Taj in past tense. It made me curious to know what had prompted the young man to discontinue.
"A month ago, he was crushed under a speeding truck while he was photographing the Taj Mahal from the opposite side of the road. I had just returned home after dropping our daughter at the school, when the police called..........." She lowered her head as the decibels plummeted and the tide of subdued emotions surged anew.
For a second time, I was stumped.
The girl whom I had until-now presumed to be a carefree spirit eager to earn some pocket money, was actually a weathered wife whom fate had forced into this profession, her only capital being the wealth of knowledge inherited from her husband.
And in a single moment, the monumental edifice erected in the name of “love” was dwarfed by a minuscule child-widow, a chance encounter with whom helped me realize the real meaning of the four letter word.
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Bio:
Sriparna is an architect by
profession and a travel writer by passion. She is based in India. She likes
“travelling to work” and is associated (as an architect) with various rural
eco-tourism projects involving local communities.
Sriparna’s local recommendation is Nalini Ravishankar who has a homestay in the midst of a coffee plantation, in Sidapur, India. She also posted a recommendation for Kalawati, but Kalawati is currently staying with her parents, and is not guiding.
Sriparna’s Travel Tips for the Taj:
Getting to the Taj Mahal: Agra, the city of the Taj, is 200 kilometres from Delhi, the capital of India and is conveniently connected by road/rail/air.
Best Place to stay: The high-end Oberoi Amarvilas, located 600 metres from the Taj Mahal offers the best view of the monument.
The Taj Mahal is closed every Friday.
Seeing the Taj under the full moon is a memorable experience and is highly recommended.
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