The Miraculous Roman Wine Festival by Leanne Talbot
The Miraculous Roman Wine Festival
By Leanne Talbot
Marino is a small village, perched on a volcanic rim, just 24 kilometers away from the Colosseum, in Rome.
Once Upon a Time and every year since… there is the great grape harvest of Marino, and subsequently the ‘Sagra dell’Uva’, or festival of grapes, or rather more precisely…
“Oi.” La Signora next door just leaned out of her window and shouted, “UN MIRACOLO… UN MIRACOLO!” (a miracle… a miracle). “The VINO, it is coming from the taps!”
We rush into our kitchen and fill as many jugs as we can find. Golden water indeed! Then Tyrone walks out of the bathroom looking rather puzzled and says, “Hey, that was weird, I think I’ve just showered in wine.”
After a good many swigs of uniquely delivered wine, we walk to the Piazza Matteotti, where we’re pressed into a crowd of Roman armpits, holding up our cups to be filled by the fountain like the thousands before and after us.
A cupful (or three) of ‘fountain wine’ later, one needs to watch one’s feet, don’t trip on the cobblestones, and if you happen to do so, try to fall into one of the many little old doorways that lead down to a yellow lit “cantina” cave, via a stairway carved into the lava rock. They go down deep below the town into a maze of hand-cut tunnels hundreds of years old. Every house has access to the ‘cantine’ underground for the storage of wine - basically a pre-electricity fridge.
On this happy evening the spider-webs are swept aside, checkered-clothed tables and chairs are un-stacked and set in nooks amongst the barrels and wine bottles of yesteryear. Candles glimmer and melt on green bottles. The fusty smell of fermenting grapes mingles with the aroma of freshly baked ‘ciambellone al mosto’… very large sticky buns made from the yeasty grape skins after the juice is pressed out. They’re deliciously sweet.
“CIAO CARISSIMI,” booms our friend Roberto, wielding his glinting carving knife, ready to slice the traditional ‘Porchetta’, a whole slow-roasted pig, head and all, de-boned and packed full of herbs. Roberto’s smile is as wide as his pink round face as he slices the pork onto a sheet of brown paper. Add that to an armful of crusty bread… light as air, and a jug of wine, what more do you need… right? Well, no, here comes pretty Fatima carrying plates of smoky tasting ‘spaghetti alla amatriciana’ and a fat rind of parmeggiano cheese to whittle on top.
Simon chews on red-hot peppery ‘coppiette’ (dried meat strips, one of the traditional specialties) while we chat to a motley bunch of characters and sing some old songs together.
The streets are covered with squashed bunches of grapes and dancing feet. Young and old enjoying the ripe merry end of summer… young couples wrapped around each other kissing on their Vespa scooters, children chasing one another around the piazza, old men sitting in groups watching the girls go by, and the women chatting on their doorsteps. All is well in Marino, the ‘vendemmia’… grape harvest is done, the vines will blaze orange… yellow... and new grapes will grow again next season.
And that, my friend, is a beautiful thing. Cheers!
Or rather… When in Marino, say as the Marinesi say… ‘Cin Cin!’
Leanne Talbot’s art (including wine paintings and travel sketches): http://web.me.com/leannes.art/Art/Welcome.html
Travel info from Leanne:
Marino is one of the famous Castelli Romani towns, just 24 kms south east of Rome, Italy, perched on the lip of a beautiful round volcanic lake ‘Lago Albano’, and stands opposite Castel Gandolfo where the Pope lives during the hot summer months.
www.comune.marino.rm.it (official website)
The Sagra dell’Uva event happens over four days, the first weekend of October, from Friday to Monday at midnight.
Simon and I live in Marino and welcome you to our village. For a tour of Rome and surrounds, Simon is the most interesting guide you could wish for, he is passionate about Rome, has lived here for 18 years and knows the history extremely thoroughly, and the special places and events that tour groups don’t generally visit. He offers specialist tours to individuals or couples rather than large groups. You will be given an insider’s view and meet the locals. He speaks German, English and Italian. He also offers bicycle tours on the Appian Way, and boat rides along the Tiber River, from Rome to Ostia Antica, near the sea.
Tel. +39069367236 or email: slgjutz@gmail.com
Getting to Marino (called Marino Laziale on the train map)
There are two airports in Rome:
FIUMICINO. A taxi ride costs approx. Euro 70.00 to Marino, or you can take the train to Termini station central Rome. It costs Euro 13.00 and takes about 20 mins. From Termini there is a train every hour to Marino Laziale that takes 40 mins. The train is destined for Albano Laziale, so get off on the 6th stop. It is well sign posted and there is a speaker that tells you in English, which stop is coming up.
Anther option would be to take the metro underground from Termini to Anagnina (last underground station east). There is a bus from ‘Anagnina’ to Marino every 30mins, which drops you off in the main piazza. That journey takes about 30 mins depending on traffic.
The second airport is CIAMPINO, where the low cost airlines usually land, and is only 7 kms away from Marino. A taxi costs a ridiculous Euro 35.00 or more. But there is a shuttle bus that takes you to the Ciampino train station where you can catch the train to Marino. The train ticket costs Euro 1.90
Once you arrive at the Marino Train station - it is an easy walk up to the center.
Accommodation is available at the Monastery in the centre of Marino; it has large clean and simple rooms. There is an elevator. There are also many hotels in the area with lovely views over Rome, or of the lake Albano. Check the Internet.
Eating:
Marino boasts some 40 restaurants and pizzerias. All offer excellent Italian fare, and some are listed in top restaurant guides. Prices are a lot more reasonable than Rome center. We strongly recommend the Fatima and Roberto’s Porchetta stand opposite the church, where you sit on wooden benches at long tables on the pavement, open daily 9am – 8pm except Mondays, or spend the evening at their hosteria which is private and one needs to book in advance. www.hosteriademinonno.it Roberto and Fatima. They cater for private parties too.