WINNING TRAVEL STORY 2011 - Ukraine - Tuk Tuk - by Krys C
Tuk Tuk
by Krys C
My molar had turned against me.
I was at an obscure music festival in a tiny community somewhere near Lviv. After a heavy rainfall had turned the concert into a mud wrestling free-for-all, my jaw began to swell. The pain that followed was so intense, I seriously considered joining the muddy fray in the hope that I might catch a stray fist in the head, rendering me unconscious, and thus bringing an end to the blinding pain of the sudden toothache.
Instead, I took an offer from an Ukrainian girl who had taken an immediate liking to me. It wasn't the first time my body-art had served as an ice-breaker towards new friendships.
“Beautiful tattoos. I bet you're crazy girl. I like crazy. Come with me, crazy girl, we hitchhike to Kiev. You can stay with me, see the capital.”
I figured Kiev might be the only place I would find an English-speaking dentist in the Ukraine. So I went.
Conveniently, there was a dentist around the corner from Yulya's apartment. I went there first thing in the morning, following an uneasy sleep on my yoga mat. Before bed I’d gone to brush my teeth and upon flipping the light switch, the walls suddenly seemed to pull back. It was as though the room had inhaled upon illumination. It wasn't until my eye caught a couple of the slower occupants retreating behind a tilted picture frame that I realized what had given me that impression.
Yulya laughed, “I see you've met our little friends.”
Typically, cockroaches don't faze me. But then, typically, I'm not sleeping on the floor.
My dentist didn't speak English. Thankfully, an assistant at the clinic did.
“This tooth is bad.”
“I get that.”
“Need root canal. We empty tooth, clean out, stop pain. Tomorrow you come back, we fill tooth. Only temporary. Must wait two weeks, then come back again, we fill tooth right.”
“So I won't be making it to Moldova this weekend?”
“You can. But must come back.”
I imagined trying to explain to Ukrainian border authorities that I needed to re-enter their country for a dental appointment.
I went to the Crimean Peninsula instead. Three weeks later I was back in the dentist's chair.
I was eager to get the tooth finished. During the interim between having it hollowed and the temporary filling put in, I'd had to stuff scraps of napkin in the tiny chasm each time I ate. The hollowed tooth felt fragile, and my heart skipped a beat every time my food crunched more than it should have.
The dentist wordlessly started. At the prick of the anesthesia, she got a short yelp out of me. My apprehension towards needles has always produced a laugh from any medical staff searching for a vein not already covered by ink. This time, however, instead of a laugh, I got a “tuk tuk”. Curious.
Further into the root canal a tool managed to hit a nerve not wise enough to go numb, and another yelp escaped me. Once again, the clucking “tuk tuk” sound followed. Was this a sound of criticism? Of admonition?
The root canal went perfectly, and at a third of the cost of a similar procedure in my then home base of Ireland. I left the office and headed for the metro. I was now staying on the other side of the Dnieper, in a home not shared by several hundred tiny squatters. Before going underground I stopped to search for the token I'd need to board the train. Then, from behind me, I heard it again.
“Tuk tuk.”
I spun, searching. What did the sound mean? Was the dentist following me?
A second later I found the source - a young mother cradling her infant against her chest. The child was crying, and the mother was attempting to calm it down, to reassure it.
“Tuk tuk”. There there. Everything's going to be okay.
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Krys’ local recommendation was Hostel Majdas in Bosnia and Herzegovina:
Bio:
Nomadic since the summer of 2007, Krys C is a former travelling tattooist and current full time vagabond.
Her wandering has thus far brought her to somewhere between 22 and 26 countries, depending on your politics. After an 8 month hiatus from travel, she'll be packing her bag in February once more, and fleeing a Canadian winter to ride a Royal Enfield from North to East India.
Providing she has made peace with the internets by then, you should be able to read more about her travels here: www.roadtoithaca.com
Krys’ Excellent Travel Tips for the Ukraine:
The Ukraine was my first experience back-packing in an area where it is extremely difficult to find English speakers. It was also the first country in which I threw travel guides out the window (a little), and attempted to take things somewhat more 'as they came'. It was equal parts rewarding and frustrating.
One beauty about the Ukraine is it is by far cheaper than other locations I’ve travelled through in Eastern Europe. So, while it may be more difficult to arrange things like transportation or tours, and far more difficult to price compare, your mistakes aren't likely to damage your funds (and pride) as much as they might in pricier countries.
As far as transportation, I found trains to be the way to go. The stations can be a little difficult to navigate, so I advise showing up early to allow yourself time to get your bearings. As well, trains to popular destinations such as Crimea can become booked quickly, so, in these instances, it's best to book ahead because many Russians make Crimea their summer vacation locale. For local transportation in Kiev, the metro is not nearly as complicated as it seems at first glance.
For many nationalities, tourist visas can be obtained when crossing the border. But you'll have to have your accommodation for at least your first stop lined up in advance. Officials will require the address when filling out the paperwork.
A pocket translator will go a long way. I wrote many sentences out to simply pass to desk and store clerks. A particular note to a pharmacist during a bout of dysentery springs to mind.
If you plan to spend much time in the country, learning at least the pronunciation of Cyrillic will also serve you well. There are many words which you can relate to languages you may already know, including English, if you can learn to sound them out. It will take less time than you think.
Regarding food: in several of the main cities, such as Kiev and Lviv, a great option for travellers weary of attempting translations, is the chain Puzata Hata: http://www.puzatahata.com.ua/eng/. All foods are prepared in advance and presented buffet-style so you need only point at what looks appetizing, and they'll throw it on a plate for you.
At 14 Market Square in Lviv, there is a brilliant, somewhat hidden, museum restaurant named Kryivka, which is not to be missed. Knock once on the door. You will be greeted by the Ukrainian patriots’ motto: “Slava Ukrayini!” (“Glory to Ukraine!”). You must then answer, “Heroyam slava!” (“Glory to the heroes!”). A shot of local honey vodka may or may not precede the doorman finally opening the bookcase which is the true entrance to the restaurant. The decor and unique menu are well worth the effort, as is the opportunity to snag a photo of yourself in an old Ukrainian jacket and helmet with one of the World War Two-era guns chained to the bar. ( http://www.kryjivka.com.ua/ [you must type 'glory to the heroes' in Cyrillic to enter the site! Just use Google Translate.])
In Crimea, in particular, there are many free camping spots along the beaches. Balaklava is particularly good for this, and you're likely to make friends easily. Attempt to meet people in advance (before leaving the town for the beaches) and you can share the cost of a local boat instead of waiting for the (still reasonably priced) ferry.
There are many fantastic tourist sites in Crimea, and almost all are accessible by very cheap, local buses. Some of these I particularly enjoyed include the Nuclear Submarine Base in Balaklava, Ai-Petri Mountain, and the Vorontsovsky Palace and Park in Alupka and, my personal favourite, the cave fortress Çufut Qale in Bakhchisarai. If you have a tent, you can stay in the woods below Çufut Qale (I had a Russian Scout troop set up camp around me and share their fire during my stay there) and there is a beautiful garden restaurant with gazebo tables just down the road towards town.
Additionally, there are a number (a large number) of outstanding caves in Crimea. Many tour and trekking options are available. Even if the website you find your tour through is in English, inquire in advance as to whether or not your guide actually speaks it.